Give the Grape 
MIts Rightful Food Phxce 

By C. Houston Goudiss 




Class TXXSIS. 
Copyright N?__ 



copflyGirr DEPosm 



Give the Grape Its Rightful 
Food Place 

Put This Valuable Fruit Where It 

Belongs in the Homes 

of the Nation 

By C. HOUSTON GOUDISS 

Food Advisor of The People's Home Journal; Author of 

"Foods that Will Win the War" and "Making 

the Most of Our Meat Supply"; Food 

Economist of national 

reputation. 



El 



PRIVATELY PRINTED BY 

THE PEOPLE'S HOME JOURNAL 

NEW YORK 






COPYRIGHT, 1921 

F. M, LUPTON, PUBLISHER 

NEW YORK 



mk Hm2 



g)ClA654918 



'U© 






Foj 



ORTUNATELY for man, the grape, despite 
the fact that nation-wide prohibition has deprived it 
of what formerly was looked upon as its chief pur- 
pose in life, now comes into its proper place as one 
of the best of food friends, without guile and above 
reproach. And this in a country where grapes have 
grown since the memory of man runneth not to the 
contrary, and where, of later years, their widespread 
intensive cultivation has constituted an industry of 
vast proportions; where the grape, long misunder- 
stood by temperance enthusiasts, may at last stand 
vindicated on its own merits. 

Long years before Christopher Columbus gazed 
in wonder at the dim light which yet was to glow 
into a flaming torch of freedom, the hardy Norse- 
men who had braved the wild Atlantic and become 
more or less familiar with these shores, called this 
country Vineland, because of the great abundance 
of wild grapes they found here. 

Nearly a hundred years after the first sighting of 
that prophetic light on what now is known as Wat- 
ling's Island, an intrepid Englishman by the name 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 

of Sir Walter Raleigh — who was to walk to fame 
on a cloak gallantly spread to save a great queen's 
dainty shoes from a mud-puddle — carried back with 
him from an expedition to the Carolinas the news 
that grapes of several different varieties grew to 
marvelous goodness in this new land. So it is reason- 
able to assume the fruit of the vine was ripening here 
even when the ancient Phoenicians introduced its 
prolific roots into Southern France some six hundred 
years prior to the Christian era. 

All of which must impress the reader with deep 
consciousness of the fact that if he or she were a 
grape grower in the United States today, he or she 
might be pardoned for a certain measure of dismay 
over the prospect for the immediate future. But the 
lexicon of nature admits no such word as dismay. 
The industrious old lady who works so many differ- 
ent kinds of magic with sun, shower and soil is not 
to be discouraged by a Volstead act. 

She will go on producing these luscious globules 
of health-giving goodness — and at heart she is glad 
their power for harm has been thus curtailed. She 
will smile as she always does, no matter how many 
obstacles are placed in her path, and say to man, 
with a larger measure of wisdom than he may at 
first appreciate, "Now eat, in its virgin goodness, 
what you used to drink in its fermented state, and 
come into a new knowledge of the goodness of the 
grape." 

4 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 



, The Grape's New Role 

It is a fact that habit can become a great bhnder, 
and the cumulative drinking habits of thousands of 
years restricted the grape to one particular role in 
the estimation of a large number of Americans — 
which also is true of a far larger number of Euro- 
peans. 

It is also a fact, amply proved in the case of the 
tomato, that a change of habit often brings to pass 
untold benefits. The "poisonous" love apple which 
our grandmothers planted in their flower gardens, 
and which we now consume at the rate of millions 
of bushels annually as the palatable, nutritious 
tomato, may have a parallel in the grape. Both have 
tonic qualities for the human system that cannot be 
lightly rated, and especially is the juice of the grape 
suitable for use as a base for cooling and refreshing 
beverages to be served in place of fermented liquors. 
Of course, for quite a few years the tempting 
clusters of varied color have been served in increas- 
ing measure in the fruit dishes on our tables. Far 
the greater part of the nation's grape crop, however, 
went into the wine vat. Some idea of the extent of 
this phase of our great industry may be gained from 
the fact that in California alone are 250,000 acres 
of grape vines which, prior to the ratification of the 
prohibition amendment, represented an investment 
of more than $100,000,000. 

What a curious thing it would be if the new order 
should increase rather than decrease the value of 
these and similar acres in New York, Ohio, Penn- 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 

sylvania, New Jersey, Virginia, Missouri, Michigan 
and Wisconsin! Fate has turned stranger tricks, 
and it is entirely within the realm of possibility — 
I am willing to say probability — that when the food 
and health value of grapes becomes widely known 
and appreciated, none will be found to complain of 
the "scuttling" of this industry. 

When we become thoroughly acquainted with this 
old friend in its new guise ; when we have tested the 
grape as a fruit-food rather than a vintage — we will 
use it more than ever, and give thanks in a new way 
to Emma Willard, William J. Bryan, Billy Sunday 
and others of that group who paved the way to the 
present state of affairs in this field. 

The Food Worth of the Grape 

The first consideration in food is flavor, and in 
this the grape is so rich that it never fails to please 
the palate and thus call into activity the necessary 
digestive juices of the stomach. 

Like nearly all fruits, it contains a large percent- 
age of water, a valuable food factor, since two-thirds 
of the human body is water. This water is highly 
sweetened with one of the most healthful forms of 
sugar and sugar is the most highly concentrated 
form of fuel-food for the generation of heat and 
energy in the body. The grape contains from thir- 
teen to twenty-five per cent grape sugar, and in 
addition to water and sugar is composed of tartaric 
acid, sodium, potash, magnesium and iron. 

Grape sugar, or dextrose, is the sweetest of all 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 

sugars, and its nature is such as to make it available 
for persons suffering from those diseases which are 
intensified by even a moderate consumption of ordi- 
nary sweets. Partly because of this and largely be- 
cause of the mineral salts it contains, the grape as a 
food IS destined to play a high part in the conserva- 
tion of health. It is known to be really beneficial in 
the treatment of certain forms of dysentery, diar- 
rhea, and involvements of the spleen and the portal 
system, while the so-called grape cure is said to have 
effected improvement in cases of tuberculosis, gout 
and some skin diseases. 

The tartaric acid in the grape not only improves 
its flavor but also acts as a condiment, and when di- 
gested produces a certain amount of heat, thus hav- 
ing food value as well as condimental worth. It also 
performs the useful service of carrying into the body 
the sodium and potash with which it is combined. 

Magnesiimi is a necessary mineral factor in the 
building of bone and teeth. It enters directly into 
the cell tissues of the body, and in addition to its 
function as an upbuilder of bony structures, helps 
to keep the hair in good condition and prompts the 
growth and luxuriance of this prime adjunct to 
beauty and good looks. 

A Fruit-Mine of Iron 

Far the most valuable food feature of this de- 
lightful fruit is its large content of iron in a form 
more easily assimilated by the human system than is 
elsewhere found in nature. 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 

The grape actually is heavy with iron, and in 
order to appreciate the full meaning of this fact 
one must remember that man not only needs but 
demands a constant supply of this mineral. 

Although the normal body content of iron is small 
— the total amount in a man of average size is esti- 
mated at about forty-six grains — it is a fact that 
even a small reduction of this apparently infini- 
tesimal total is one of the surest causes of ill health. 
And since one-sixth of a grain of iron is daily lost 
to the body through the normal excretions, there is 
need for constant replenishment of this supply. 

Whoever fails to provide for such replenishment 
is tempting the terrible curse of anemia, and who- 
ever has observed or suffered the utter routing of 
strength, vitality and good looks by this foe of 
"poor blood" need not be told a second time to make 
generous use of grapes in the diet whenever they 
can be obtained. 

The iron in the body is found exclusively in so- 
called organic combinations, and in order to be of 
use to the human system must be got through the 
foods we eat. None of these is so rich in this vitally 
necessary element as grapes, and while the average 
person long has known that the dried grape or raisin 
is a notable iron food, few ever have stopped to 
think of the ripe grape itself as an equally good 
provider of this mineral. Such is the case, however, 
and it may be safely said that grapes as an iron food 
are just as important as raisins. 

It is iron that makes for red blood and in nine 

8 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 



^ cases out of ten it is lack of iron that pales the cheeks 
and takes the pep out of life. Neither vegetable nor 
animal life could exist without it. Time was when 
• we believed that iron could be bought in bottles, but 
science has proven that chemical compounds do not 
supply this valuable mineral as it is found in food. 

The actual food-fuel value per pound of ordinary 

grapes in the ripe raw state is about 425 calories 

somewhat in excess of that of the apple— but the 
food value of this fruit, like that of any other, is not 
to be thus measured. Its sugar content gives it a 
fair sustaining power, but of more importance is the 
delicious flavor, which calls the necessary digestive 
juices into action, and the mineral salts. 

The grape is not as rich in food value as corn, 
potatoes or bacon. Judged solely by its content of 
calories (heat energy units) it might never have 
been looked upon with favor. Judged by the same 
standard, lettuce and tomatoes would be thrown out 
of the kitchen door as practically useless, although 
science and experience has proved them to be among 
the most useful foods we can eat. 

What is the Grape Cure? 

The so-called grape cure, which for many years 
has been popular in some parts of Europe, and which 
later spread to California, is a method of treating 
some diseases and conditions with a diet in which 
grapes predominate. At first the cure consisted of 
an exclusive diet of grapes, but it was found that a 

9 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 

combination of grapes with other foods produced 
more desirable results. 

The modified procedure which grew out of this 
experiment now calls for some two pounds of grapes 
daily at first — a half pound on waking, another at 
eleven a.m., another at five, p.m., and still another 
at bedtime. This may be gradually increased to four 
or even five pounds a day, and in many cases it has 
proved highly beneficial. 

"But wouldn't it be dangerous to swallow so many 
grape seeds?" asks the reader. 

This question brings us to one of the most inter- 
esting phases of any consideration of grapes as food. 

Do Not Fear Grape Seeds 

The old and somewhat common fear that the 
seeds of grapes and other small fruits will cause 
appendicitis has been so thoroughly undermined by 
scientific observation that there is nothing to be 
dreaded on this score. There have been cases of 
appendicitis when a grape or other small seed was 
discovered in the diseased appendix upon operation. 
Such cases, however, have been rare indeed and the 
presence of the seeds is now explained as an incident 
rather than a cause. Some persons are so constituted 
as to be singularly sensitive to the presence in the 
intestines of any factor which may give rise to irri- 
tation, but then some persons are poisoned by milk, 
and the seeds of fruit cannot be singled out for 
blame in this matter. 

If one persists in clinging to this foolish fear, the 

10 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 

seeds of the fruit can be ejected before the pulp is 
swallowed. The wiser plan, however, is to chew skin, 
seed and pulp and thus secure the full mineral value 
of this fruit-food and if such a course is followed 
the laxative value of the grape is largely enhanced, 
as skin and seeds act as bulk or roughage in creating 
activity of the colon. 

Far better and more wise is it for the average 
person to forget the fact that grape seeds have been 
occasional offenders and to make larger use of this 
most delicious fruit in the daily diet. Decline to 
swallow the seeds if you choose, but don't let such 
little things stand in the way of the great health and 
strength advantages which the grape provides. 

Here is a most delicious fruit which possesses the 
rare peculiarity of being able to withstand drought 
and which grows in profusion even when given little 
care; a fruit which abounds in many varieties and 
which, when taken advantage of in its different sea- 
sonal forms, can be made almost a seven-month 
friend. Squeeze out its juice and sterilize it and you 
have one of the most delicious of beverages, fit for 
a king. 

The Wholesomeness of Grape Juice 

The American people already have evidenced 
their appreciation of unfermented grape juice, for 
within a few years this has become one of the great 
fruit industries of the nation. Millions of bottles of 
the fragrant, tempting liquid flow annually in a 
steady stream into the homes of the land, carrying 

11 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 

with them the concentrated goodness of the grape. 
You can make grape juice in your home if you 
choose, or you can buy any one of a number of excel- 
lent brands, and it is a beverage worth keeping on 
tap at all times. 

It is one of the most refreshing of drinks, and can 
be used in any number of ways, either pure or diluted 
with iced water, or in combination with other bever- 
ages. One combination which has gained wide favor 
is grape juice and ginger ale, about equal parts. For 
picnics, parties and general home use, grape juice is 
admirable, and the distribution of the commercial 
article is so widespread that one seldom is out of 
reach of it. 

It not only has palate charm, but is rich in food 
value, and possesses acid properties which make it 
all the more healthful. For invalids and in cookery 
it is invaluable. 

Grapes should never be eaten until thoroughly 
ripe, but when in such condition may be partaken in 
large quantities without in any way endangering 
digestion, so far as the average person is concerned. 
They are always more appetizing when served cool 
or cold. This end may be attained by keeping them 
in the refrigerator or serving them in a bed of 
crushed ice. 

Now that the grape has been outlawed as a source 
of wine and brandy, it would be well for growers to 
pay more attention to the manner of its packing and 
the method of its distribution. Certain varieties will 
keep well for several days in the markets, and it 

12 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 

would seem the part of wisdom to make wider use 
of larger-size baskets in packing such varieties. 
There was a time when the eight- and ten-pound 
baskets were most popular, but of late there has been 
a tendency to reduce the size until now the three- 
pound basket, which represents a great waste of 
wood and labor, seems to be the favorite. Such 
wastage of material and labor naturally adds unduly 
to the cost of the fruit, and the grape is so good for 
us that every effort should be made to place it within 
easy reach of the average table. 

And it would be well for the growers to make an 
effort to improve the flavor of American grapes, 
especially as the grape must stand on the merit of 
flavor in order to become a popular food. As flavor 
is the force that calls into activity the digestive 
juices of the stomach and the value of what we eat 
is dependent first upon the measure in which our 
food is assimilated, the flavor of the grape becomes 
an important commercial attribute. As one leading 
food authority has pointed out, if the American 
public fully realized the dietetic or digestive value 
of refined flavor in grapes as in other foods, a more 
determined effort would be made to bring about a 
larger acreage of Worden and Delaware, Niagara 
and Eclipse, Brighton and Diamond and Muscatel 
and other aromatic and exhilarating table grapes. 

At the present time the Concord is most popular 
with the grape raisers, but it is not a good table 
grape and the bulk of the crop is used for manufac- 
turing grape juice. 

13 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 

We have in the grape a food situation without 
precedent — vast production ah*eady assured and 
the former chief outlet closed. Of course, there is 
only one logical course to pursue, and that is to 
make use of this delicious fruit in every way we can. 
Its worth is inestimable as a first-aid to health and 
palate pleasure. The very minerals it contains are 
so essential to the life and health of the body that if 
they were to be taken away, disease, disintegration 
and death would follow. As a matter of fact, "min- 
eral starvation" is often the primary cause of disease. 
In the grape we have a perfect and most palatable 
bullet — grape shot ! — with which to defend ourselves 
against this insidious foe. 



14 



RECIPES 

Grape Juice 

Remove grapes from stems, wash and place in a large kettle. Crush 
with a fruit press or potato masher and heat slowly to the boiling 
point. Strain through cheesecloth and sweeten the juice to taste — 
one-half cupful of sugar to one quart of juice is usually enough. Re- 
heat tcr the boiling point, pour into sterilized jars, and seal at once. 
Dilute before using. 

Concord or Catawba grapes may be used in this recipe. 

Grape Marmalade 

This may be made from the pulp left after making grape juice. 

Put the pulp in a saucepan and add enough water to moisten it. 
Heat to the boiling point and then rub through a coarse strainer. 
Measure the fruit and add one cupful of sugar for every two cupfuls 
of fruit. Mix and boil about thirty minutes or until the mixture 
jellies from the spoon. Stir to prevent scorching. Pour into small 
hot jelly jars and when cold and firm, cover with melted paraflSne. 

Grape Preserve 

Cut Tokay grapes in half, remove seeds and put in a deep sauce- 
pan. Add one cupful of water and one orange cut in very thin slices 
to every four cupfuls of grapes. Heat slowly to the boiling point, 
boil five minutes, skimming off all the scum that forms. Then measure 
the fruit, add an equal amount of sugar and boil until the syrup 
jellies as^it drops from the spoon. The grapes should keep their 
shape. Pour into sterilized jars and seal when cool. 

Grape Punch 

Boil one cupful of sugar with one quart of water for ten minutes. 
Cool and add one quart of grape juice, juice of two oranges and two 
lemons, one cupful of finely cut oranges and one cupful of grated 
pineapple. Serve with cracked ice or in a punch bowl with a block 
of ice. Sugar syrup made in quantity is convenient for use in summer 
beverages because it dissolves more readily than sugar in cold drinks. 

Grape Cup 

Mix two cupfuls of grape juice with two whole cloves, one-third 
cupful of sugar, juice of two oranges, one teaspoonful of grated 
orange rind and four mint or lemon verbena leaves. Let stand for 
three or four hours to ripen. Then strain and stir in one cupful of 
grape juice, stiffly beaten white of one egg and one cupful of cold 
water. Serve in tall glasses one-third full of finely cracked ice and 
decorate with a thin slice of orange, a small sprig of mint or a strip 
of orange peel. 

15 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 



Grape Sherbet 

Soak one teaspoonful of gelatine in one tablespoonful of cold 
water for five minutes. Dissolve in one and one-half cupfuls of boil- 
ing water and add one cupful of sugar, one cupful of grape juice 
and one-fourth cupful of lemon juice. Freeze, using two parts of 
finely cracked ice to one part of rock salt. 

Grape Cocktail 

Cut in half and remove seeds from enough California grapes to 
make two cupfuls. Mix carefully with one cupful of oranges cut in 
dice, one teaspoonful of lemon juice and one tablespoonful of pow- 
dered sugar. Let stand one-half hour to chill and ripen and serve in 
sherbet cups, with one teaspoonful of crushed ice in each cup. 

Grape Juice Salad 

Soak two tablespoonfuls of gelatine in one-fourth cupful of cold 
water. Dissolve in two and one-half cupfuls of hot grape juice and 
add one-half cupful of sugar. Stir imtil sugar dissolves, then cool 
until beginning to set. Pour a thin layer of the jelly into a wet mold 
and add one cupful of oranges, cut in small pieces, cover with a layer 
of jelly, add one cupful of Malaga or California grapes cut in half 
and seeded and then cover with the rest of the jelly. Chill, turn out 
and serve with cream mayonnaise. Garnish with cream cheese balls 
and Malaga or California grapes. 



Malaga Salad 



Cut in half and remove seeds from enough Malaga grapes to 
make two cupfuls. Peel two tangerines and separate into sections, 
removing the seeds. Mash one cream cheese and mix with one-fourth 
cupful of finely chopped nuts. Shape into small balls and sprinkle 
with paprika. Arrange lettuce on plates for individual service. Allow 
for each service four to six sections of tangerine, three cheese balls 
and about three tablespoonfuls of grapes. Pour French fruit dressing 
over the salads before serving. 



Grape Whip 



Soak two tablespoonfuls of gelatine in one-half cupful of cold 
water for five minutes. Stir into one and one-half cupfuls of boiling 
water and add three-fourths cupful of sugar. Stir until gelatine is 
dissolved and then add two cupfuls of grape juice and juice of one 
lemon. Cool until beginning to set, then beat with an egg beater until 
stiff enough to hold its shape. Pour into a wet mold and chill. Turn 
out and serve with whipped cream or a custard sauce. Garnish with 
halved Malaga grapes or candied violets. 

16 



GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE 
Grape Sponge 

■Mix one cupful of grape juice with one cupful of boiling water and 
heat to the boiling point. Stir in one-half cupful of granulated 
t*apioca and cook, stirring constantly until the tapioca is clear. Add 
juice of one lemon and two tablespoonfuls of orange juice and beat 
in' the stiffly beaten white of one egg. Cool and fold in the whip 
from one-half cupful of cream or evaporated milk. Chill and serve 
in sherbet cups. 

Grape Tarts 

Cover inverted tart pans with rich pastry and bake in a hot oven 
until a golden brown. Cool, fill with grape marmalade and cover 
with meringue. Brown in a slow oven. Or line the tart pans with 
pastry, bake five minutes, fill two-thirds full of marmalade, cover 
with criss-cross strips of crust and finish baking in a hot oven. These 
tarts may be eaten hot or cold. They are a delicious luncheon dessert 
when game is served, as the grape flavor makes a spicy relish. 

Chocolate Dipped Grape?* 

stem large, perfect Malaga grapes and wipe with a clean, dry 
cloth. Dip each grape in melted fondant and set aside to harden. 
Melt sweetened cooking chocolate over hot water, then cool until it 
begins to thicken again. Dip each grape in the chocolate and place 
on waxed paper to harden. If the chocolate gets too stiff to cover 
the grapes stand it over hot water for a few seconds. If the choco- 
late is not stiff enough it will run off the fondant. Be careful not 
to get a single drop of water in the chocolate or it will be spoiled 
for dipping. 

Grape Sandwiches 

Cut enough white grapes in half to make one cupful. Remove 
seeds and skin if very tough. Mix with one-half cupful of finely cut 
tart apple and one-fourth cupful of finely chopped pecan nuts. Add 
enough mayonnaise to moisten and spread between thin buttered 
slices of white or graham bread. Serve as soon as possible after 
making. 

Spiced Grapes 

Remove stems from seven pounds of grapes. Wash grapes and 
mash slightly. Heat slowly to the boiling point and simmer until the 
seeds loosen. Then rub through a coarse strainer and add two cupfuls 
of vinegar, four pounds of sugar, one tablqspoonful each of cinna- 
mon and cloves and one teaspoonful of allspice. Boil all together 
slowly for two hours or until thick as marmalade. Pour into jelly 
glasses. 

17 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





014 487 268 A # 



^ 




